Category Archives: Third World Exotic

The Deal With Ocean Waves

Water, as it turns out, is a pretty efficient conductor of energy and you don’t have go far for a good example – walk to the end of my street on any given day and have a look at the … Continue reading

Posted in color transparencies, Fuji RDP3, Fujichrome, Indonesia, Mentawai Islands, ocean waves, San Diego, Skip Frye, Sumatra, surfboards, surfing, Third World Exotic, Treasure Island | Leave a comment

What is it About Surfboards?

I grew up surfing in Santa Monica in the 1960s. My first surfboards were nine-foot plus, second-hand relics that I could barely get my arm around – like my aunt’s 9’2″ Dave Sweet round pin (with a three inch balsa … Continue reading

Posted in Blue Cheer Surfboards, California, Hoy Runnels, Mabile Surfboards, Mike Perry, Rusty Surfboards, Skip Frye, surfboard shapers, surfboards, surfing, Third World Exotic | 3 Comments

In The Shaping Room

Inland – far from the bright, sunny beaches where everybody surfs – is another world where surfboards are made. Surfboards are beautiful, clean sculptural objects. Surfboard factories are not. A surfboard factory usually has a small front office with battered … Continue reading

Posted in California, Mabile Surfboards, Panorama, Portrait, San Diego, surfboards, surfing, Third World Exotic | Leave a comment