Chris – Pacific Beach, California. 6:30PM, October 5th 2012
Surfing is a discipline. Like any serious pursuit it involves sacrifices that are not for the faint of heart. Forget about a regular job. The idea of family can be pretty abstract. Your family is the crew at the point. Your job is to surf. You watch as your home-town becomes prohibitively expensive and one day you wake up feeling more in tune with other outcasts – bikers, hot-rod guys – than the cookie cutter people showing up at your home break with thousand dollar surfboards. Chris is a phenomenally gifted surfer, living on the edge. This is the first image in a new portfolio meant to chronicle lives in California you won’t see on television. Noir is the French word usually associated with darkness – as in Film Noir. This is California Noir.